CALIFORNIA FOR TWO

After a 5-day trip along Highway 1 from San Francisco to LA in January 2004, Other Half suggested that we should start from LA next time and leave from San Francisco but via a different route. So in July of that year we embarked on our two-week road trip through the Golden State...

PANCAKES AND CHAMPAGNE

Blurry-eyed from our early morning Manchester to Heathrow flight we find ourselves waiting for our luggage in the arrivals hall alongside the GB Olympic swimming team. Among them James Hickman and Graeme Smith. Onward to check-in for our flight to LA!

The man on the next table in the Upper Class Lounge is irritating me. Not him really, just his cigarette smoke. Never mind. We managed to upgrade from Economy to Upper Class all for the princely sum of 30,000 Virgin Atlantic Flying Club miles and the little matter of the airport tax. Good…he’s finished now and I can enjoy my American pancakes breakfast. I’m being good, Other Half on the other hand isn’t. My drink of choice is OJ, his…..champagne.

The Lounge is busy, various familiar faces from the small screen mill about. Not the obviously recognisable but more the ‘I know that face, but can’t remember the name’ scenario. The early start is beginning to take its toll and I could just do with getting on the plane now. Have succumbed to a sip of champagne and it’s gone to my head….want to nod off!

It's not so busy now since the Miami flight was called. Breakfast menus have been replaced by the lunch menus, lounge staff are tidying up ready for the next influx. Have just been handed the in-flight lunch menu. I already have my flight planned out…massage, lunch with a nice glass of sauvignon, then…sleep!

So finally on board. Female captain. Other Half’s comment: Hope she knows the way. My reply: If she gets lost she would ask for directions not just circle for hours in the hope of eventually getting there.

Driving from LA airport along Highway 405 and the onto Highway 1, the only constant along the way the sea, azure blue reflecting the cloudless California sky.

We pass through the towns of Laguna Beach – pretty and expensive looking; Carlsbad – much the same and stop at San Clemente – not as well heeled, but where we laid our heads for the night at the Budget Motel where $90/night plus tax got us a mini suite. Not the most luxurious place on earth, but clean and comfortable. The cheerful Mexican restaurant across the road provided us with a very palatable meal before bedtime.

As we checked out the following morning, we overheard a guest trying to negotiate the cost of a room for the night. The price had nearly doubled. Just goes to show the art of negotiation!

An hour and a half after leaving San Clemente we reached our destination, La Jolla (pronounced ‘La Hoy-a’), 'The Jewel'. It's a northern suburb of San Diego and as the jewel, it did not disappoint. As a cosmopolitan town providing plenty of people watching opportunities from its plentiful bars and eateries and before checking into our accommodation, Moondoggies was our balcony of choice where a nice sandwich and a beer passed an hour or so. On the way to the hotel, we made a detour to the gliderport where bright parachutes took advantage of the breeze blowing off the cliff.

The busy 4-star Hilton La Jolla Torrey Pines is hosting three weddings and a conference today. With a spa, golf course, mini gym, large outdoor pool and hot tub, the hotel can keep most guests occupied.

It’s 5.30pm and Other Half is sleeping off his sunburn by the pool. We made the mistake of putting the top down on the car on our way from LA yesterday. Note: Even if the sun isn’t shining, in July in California you will get burned without plenty of protection!

A cold beer or cocktail from the poolside bar looks rather inviting…

BISCUIT ANYONE?

Rounding the corner on Jimmy Durante Boulevard, the opulence of the Del Mar Race Track comes into view.

Located 20 miles north of San Diego and steeped in history, the track welcomes young and old alike. Opened by Bing Crosby in 1937, the track advertises itself as "Where the turf meets the surf" and played host to the legendary dual between Seabiscuit and Ligaroti in 1938. It continues to draw the crowds throughout the California summer. 

Our reserved table at the Stretch Run Grill was our base, providing great views of the finish line. Our friendly server saw to our drinking and eating needs while we came and went throughout the day. A trip to the paddock gave us the chance to see who we fancied in each race. A flutter here and there and we broke even. So didn’t feel too guilty.

Tip: Wear comfy shoes!

SAN DIEGO

San Diego markets itself as "America's City". It reminds me of San Francisco, but less touristy. The Gaslamp Quarter - thriving mix of music and food - offers a choice of every culture from Mexican, Italian, English and American cuisine. A few cafes and restaurants offer live music throughout the week and on the Sunday we were there, we found ourselves in the 5th Quarter. A lively cafe style restaurant/bar on Fifth and Market offering American food with live music from The Aubrey Faye Band bringing jazz, soul and R'n'B renditions to this popular venue.

We only had one night in San Diego, but it was very comfortably spent in one of the spacious 5th Avenue Loft rooms at the Hilton Gaslamp Quarter. The hotel is ideally situated for exploring San Diego on foot and provides a welcome retreat after a hard day offering its full-size outdoor swimming pool and fitness room.

We left for Palm Springs the following morning refreshed and laid back...

DESERT OASIS

On the I-10 through the San Gorgonio Pass of Palm Desert, we drive along seeing the ever-changing colours of the rocks and sand introducing us to the oasis that is Palm Springs. We gawp at the lushness of the lawns hidden behind the high gates of the seemingly endless estates along the road. The coolness of the car disguised the 100°F (40°C) heat that awaited us. At 3.30pm, the lack of people outdoors gives a clue to the unforgiving temperature.

At the end of Ramon Drive, sits the entrance to our destination, the Ingleside Inn. The Inn doesn't boast a garish, obvious hotel entrance, but a driveway that could lead to a friend's home. The Spanish-style building looks a haven of cool and tranquillity. The cool verandah leads to into the small, welcoming reception area and a friendly face will greet you. That face is most likely to be that of Armida, the hotel manager, who -after 20 years with the hotel - takes enormous pride in the Ingleside and making sure that her guests -sometimes stars of stage and screen - looked after as they were her own family. The same can be said for rest of the team at the Inn.

David, the bartender, has been at the Inn for over 30 years. He says no one else will have him. He does serve the most lethal vodka martini's! He is happy to advise you on what to do and see in Palm Springs - although he is quick to point out that there isn't much to do here, except lounge about, have some lunch, go shopping, maybe do some more lounging about.

Every room at the Inn is individually decorated from the Royal Suite and The Library Room to a standard deluxe room and most are situated around the quiet serenity of the inn's courtyard. It's a place of quiet to do as much or as little as you want and being only two blocks away from Palm Springs village centre, you can park your car (in any available shady spot preferably) and explore.

Melvyn's Restaurant at the Inn offers sumptuous cuisine at affordable prices.

Unusually, we felt quite energetic on our second day in Palm Springs and - on David's suggestion - ventured to the city limits and took the Aerial Tramway to the summit of Mount San Jocinta. The rotating tramcar (apparently they boast they have the world's largest - but I think the ones on Table Mountain, Cape Town, South Africa are bigger), takes you on a scenic journey to the 10,834 foot summit. The State Park is a complete contrast to what lies at the foot of the mountain. This cool, green, lush wilderness with its vegetation and small animals and birds provides 54 miles of hiking trails through the 14,000 acre park.

At $21pp, it is pricey but the views are spectacular and well worth it. We visited in August, so the mountain is a welcome retreat as the temperature is approximately 30° cooler than the desert below.

After an afternoon on the mountain, the pool at the Ingleside Inn is a perfect opportunity to relax with complimentary poolside soft drinks.

Steeped in history and understated style and elegance, the Inn hasn't succumbed to the commercial pressure of contemporary minimalist style. The Ingleside Inn boats what many hotels lack...personal individuality, pride in its tradition and style and although you arrive as a guest for the first time, you leave as a friend.

THE BEAR NECESSITIES

Our next destination was Yosemite Valley but we decided to stopover on the way from Palm Springs, as the drive would be long and in this heat, tiring. Seven hours later and ever changing scenic beauty of hills and vast desolate stretches of roads with only gas stations providing a break we found ourselves in the little town of Bishop, offering us the usual array of branded motels, lodges and diners. We opted for the Vagabond Inn. At $70/night plus tax for a room with one bed, it was clean and located on the edge of the town centre. Bishop only really offered one place in the way of a bar and that was Whiskey Creek, a combination of a saloon, restaurant and gift shop. The lively atmosphere kept us there for a while and the bartender, Sarah's, pitchers of margarita saw us falling out of the door back to the motel.

Leafing through the motel's leaflets we discovered that the area of Bishop offered a route that explored the road less travelled (but an SUV was recommended) and took in the old scenic film locations used in westerns, etc. We also heard on the radio the following day about a hiker who left his rucksack high up on a tree because he thought the bears would not get it. He was wrong...and it fought him for it too in the process ripping his shoulder apart!

Morning pushed us along and back onto the road on our way to Yosemite. For a while the 395 offered up its scenes of cloudless sky, hilltops and occasionally a lake thrown in. The long desert flanked roads were only broken by the occasional gas station at a cross roads.

We stopped briefly at Mammoth Lakes to catch a glimpse of more spectacular scenery that California has to offer before carrying on to our destination.

We entered Yosemite National Park at the Tioga Pass gate (US120 Highway). Immediately the coolness of the park welcomed us to her home.

Americans should be very grateful. They have hundreds of national parks preserved for them by their ancestors. People who cared enough to make sure that they will have places like Yosemite to play in and appreciate nature; to see and experience animals in their natural habitat.

We stopped as we entered the park to put the top of the car down. Immediately the smell of trees and the cool clean mountain air filled our lungs. The density of the forest surrounding us on either side gave just a hint of what lay within. Was the famed black bear lurking in its midst? What did it think of all these humans that invaded its home every summer, disturbing its life?

Winding our way into the Park, unmissable views grabbed for our attention from every angle. Landmarks like May Lake, Elephant Rock, Yosemite Falls and Bridalveil Falls all made sure that our drive was awe inspiring.

As we left the 120 and turned onto Big Oak Flat Road that would lead us into the valley, we soon met the Merced River, where people were enjoying swimming, paddling, kayaking and sunbathing on the banks of the river that plays a vital role in the valley. In the shadow of Half Dome, our home for the next two nights came into view - Curry Village - the largest of the available lodging facilities in Yosemite Valley. A choice from basic tent cabins to wooden cabins with facilities was ours. We opted for the tent cabin - a raised platform with an 'A'-frame canvas tent attached to it. Two camp-style beds (comfortable but squeaky) is where we would lay our heads. I hadn't roughed it like this since I'd been at school on camping trips! After checking in, the "Be Bear Aware" policy drummed into us - we even had to sign a disclaimer - we set off to explore our facilities. With all our scented items packed away on our designated bear locker, we went to find our what Curry Village offered in the way of facilities. As the night was closing in and our exploring done, we settled in at the Cocktail Patio where we were kept happy with wine, beer and pizza.

The following morning I trekked to the toilet block behind our tent. As I passed a large tree, a sight struck me - bear crap! Later as Other Half and I set off to further explore the Valley, we stepped off the main path for a few minutes, but were soon back on it when again, we saw a fresh pile of bear crap, this time steaming! We didn't stray off that path again! Further along we were confronted by signs advising us on how to defend ourselves against mountain lions! We wondered up to Mirror Lake which was very dry. Apparently most of the water has evaporated by the summer time, but I am told that it is beautiful in the spring time. There is so much to see and do in this beautiful place (although sometimes scary) I would suggest that if you are interested in visiting that you visit the park's web site: Yosemite National Park.

It's 10.30pm and I need to pee...Other Half chivalrously offers to walk with me to the toilet block. Torches in hand, we brave the 100 foot trek. A movement catches the corner of my eye and I shine the torch towards it. Shiny black eyes look up at me. "Oh my god....oh my god....a bear!" I shriek quietly. Other Half spots him too and practically pushes me into the toilet block. I stand shivering, pointing idiotically at the door squeaking "Bear! Bear!" while the bemused lady brushing her teeth wanders what this crazy pair are doing. Other Half braves it to look at the animal and as he waddles (the bear, not Other Half) behind the toilet block, he gives a glancing look at the human with the light and continues on his way back into the wilderness that is, by rights, his home. What seems like forever but could be no more than 5 minutes, knees still shaking and heart still racing with excitement - or fear - we bravely strut back to our tent and don't fall asleep until the adrenalin subsides.

The next morning, all packed up and ready to roll we head towards Glacier Point - a renowned panoramic view with a 3,000 foot drop to the valley floor - showcasing Half Dome and the Valley. it would be peaceful were it not for the 100 or so tourists. Yosemite is beautiful when you look up. It's when you look down at ground level that you wonder just how long her beauty will survive the never ending stream of thousands and thousands of daily summer visitors. At least she has some respite in winter.

We bid farewell to beautiful Yosemite and headed north towards Lake Tahoe.

THE LAKE OF THE SKY

The beauty that is Lake Tahoe in winter with her hills and summits blanketed white sheds that coat in summer and opens up to a whole new style of visitor.

The 72-mile circumference of 'The Lake of the Sky' hosts skiers, boarders and gamblers during the cold season and from May to November a new breed of visitor invades her shores.

Divided almost half between California and Nevada from north to south with the North Shore being predominantly in Nevada (and in my opinion the more scenic of the two), whether you need your car or not is dependent on what your activities are. If gambling in the summer combined with some experience of the lake is what you prefer then staying close to the Stateline would be your best bet. We normally tend to stay on the North Shore on our annual ski trip to Lake Tahoe in January/February, where we find it's not as congested as the South Shore, but his time The Embassy Suites Hotel on Highway 50 on the South Shore, neighbouring the famous Harrah's and Caesar's Hotel Casinos will be our base for a couple of days. The hotel provides more than ample sized rooms and suites to suit and with a complimentary cocktail evening and breakfast thrown in, you can't go wrong for comfort and convenience at 4-star quality.

Driving around the lake, watching the water reflect the different hues of the changing sky throughout the day, we visited our favourite places around the lake including the mesmerising Emerald Bay - apparently Lake Tahoe's most photographed natural wonder and the Ponderosa Ranch - home to Pa, Adam, Hoss and Little Joe of  television classic 'Bonanza' (sadly the ranch has now closed and the land has been sold to a property developer). The shores of the lake host many summer visitors and state parks and beaches with pine trees providing shade, allow everyone to enjoy this beauty. In some places the lake has created sandy alcoves hidden from normal view...places you have to go and find if you know where or are lucky enough to stumble upon if you don't. If you want to see the lake from its surface where it is reputed that water is so clear you can see a dinner plate from 75 feet below the water, then try one of the many boat trips that go to various places across the lake including a sneak at the Vikingsholm Mansion at Emerald Bay, a popular attraction built as a private house by Lora Knight a millionaire heiress and was bought by the state of California a few years after Mrs Knight's death. You can only get to the house by foot. To find out more click here: Vikingsholm Mansion

We only spent a couple of nights at Lake Tahoe before we left towards Coloma...

EVER BEEN SURFING ON A RIVER?

It had taken Other Half 3 years to get me to this point, as I was being fitted for my lifejacket (or PFD - personal flotation device). We all piled into the bus waiting to take us to our starting point on the South Fork American River to start our 2-day river rafting trip. As the old girl wheezed her way up the climbs (you could almost hear her say: "I think I can, I think I can..."), I wondered what my fate was to be. Other Half reassuringly patted by leg occasionally. He had done this before (the rafting, I mean!). We piled off the bus at our stop and we all hovered anxiously in the shade of the tree that had seen many more nervous souls before us. Matt, our tour (and our group) leader, gave the safety talk, allocated guides to people and PDF's securely fastened and with paddle in hand, my first whitewater voyage had begun!

We passed over our first set of ripples, "That's not so bad", I thought. Then a bigger set of ripples and still not bad. Then Matt asked us how adventurous we were. Everyone cheered...except me. "Do you want to surf this next rapid?" Surf it?! Was he joking? Apparently not. He explained that it was basically staying on the wave of a hole in the water as long as you can. Didn't sound too bad, as long as I didn't fall out. Matt gave everyone the chance to get out of the raft if they didn't want to do it.

There was a rock on the side you could step onto and wait. I reluctantly said I would stay on. So, as we lined up along with the other rafts, we watched as the first one attempted it. And we had our first swimmer and she took the guide with her! Mmmmm....I thought. Is this such a good idea after all? Ok...here we go then...

Matt shouted his instructions and we paddled accordingly. Hitting the centre of the hole, being rocked vigorously from side to side with water coming in from everywhere, I fell out and was promptly spat out by the waves. Get to the side was my only thought but the current out of the wave wasn't very obliging in helping me. I was hauled in by Toby and her group and watched while the rest of my group screamed and shrieked and hung on for dear life. Surfing time over, my group collected me from the other raft and we went looking for our next rush. Several tamer rapids later and it was soon lunch time. The guides laid on a healthy, varied array of sandwiches and fruit and there was even time and enough for seconds. Forty five minutes or so later and with sunscreen topped up, we were soon back in the boats. It turns out the morning run was just a warm up as we were soon to encounter 'Troublemaker' were we had to listen to all our paddling instructions as well as remembering to smile for the cameras positioned along the rocks. So screaming and smiling through gritted teeth, we followed instructions back paddling and forward paddling with all our might...and got through it.

Tired, relieved and 8 river miles later, we reached the end of our first day. We stacked the rafts on the shore ready for our second day of more teeth gritting 'fun'. We refuelled with happy hour and dinner laid on by the guides at the company's own campsite where you could use the facilities free of charge as part of your package. We had stayed the night before too and exhausted by our day's events, we were soon back inside our tent and sleeping bags to recharge.

As the next day dawned, I wondered what was in store for me. We clambered back into our boat and headed for our next adventure. Everything was relatively

calm and we had an opportunity to take in the beauty of the river and its banks until after lunch when the biggest rapid - 'Hospital Bar' awaited. This time I made it through without coming off the boat, although by now after two days I had come out at least twice. I was the smallest on board after all. We continued on listening to the various dirty jokes and banter between the groups and so ended our second day and my whitewater experience. The bus was loaded and we enjoyed a cold drink to ease the heat. We stayed in camp on our last night and had the pleasure of meeting Bill McGinnis, the founder and owner of Whitewater Voyages. After more than 30 years, Bill is still very passionate about his company and the people who work for him. He now runs more guide training than he does guiding, but his philosophy is still the same as it was in the beginning - "The Fear, The Confidence, The Enjoyment" - the three stages that can be applied to anyone experiencing his trips. The Fear - of experiencing the unknown; The Confidence - of having experienced and completed what was the unknown; The Enjoyment - of overcoming the fear.

As the biggest company offering more river runs than any other in Northern California Bill and his team, even after so many years, still ensure the personal and extremely well organised experience that you need whether a first time or seasoned rafter at any level.

My philosophy after this experience? Maybe again. After a long rest!

And so on to the Sonoma Valley Wine Region...

SERVE CHILLED...

The final leg of our trip brought us to California's wine country for a couple of nights, where our base was the Glenelly Inn, Glen Ellen. The understated calmness invites you in as you enter its the grounds of the inn where you are greeted by its proprietor, Kristi. Each individually styled room, suite and cottage has been created with personal attention to detail and those extra little touches of luxury make all the difference. We were lucky enough to be able to stay in one of the two garden cottages.

The cool serenity and the vibrant colours of the manicured gardens summon birds to play, to the delight of the household cat, while you relax in or around the inn's outdoor hot tub. Breakfast is served in the Common Room where the long dining table invites you to exchange your travel tales with fellow guests. Breakfast is a sumptuous affair with Kristi's own delectable creations making sure you start the day well before exploring the little village of Glen Ellen or the further reaches of the Sonoma Valley beyond. There are wineries aplenty so I won't bore you with a list of names, but you can see some of them here: http://www.sonomavalley.com/ .

Glen Ellen was the home of Jack London, the acclaimed author of such tales as 'Call of the Wild' and 'White Fang' and offers the opportunity to visit his beloved Beauty Ranch and other haunts, including Jack London State Park.

Although small, the village has a range of restaurants that could rival any top of the range eatery in any of the big cities with among them, Saffron, serving an eclectic fusion of Californian cuisine. We enjoyed a meal here one evening upon Kirsti's recommendation and were not disappointed in any respect.

Glen Ellen is just one of the many little towns and villages you can use as a base to explore the Sonoma and Napa Valley regions, but you would be hard pressed to find a more calming oasis, where the Glenelly Inn and its owners make sure you feel like you have just visited a friend.

AND SO TO HOME...

Our flight back home was from San Francisco and although we explored much of this beautiful part of the USA, I will never tire of it and can always find an excuse to come back at any time. There is so much more to enjoy and hopefully someday I will get that chance.

TRAVEL FACTS:

Flights to USA from London Heathrow with Virgin Atlantic.

Accommodation:

Hilton Hotel La Jolla Torrey Pines - www.hilton.com

Hilton San Diego - www.hilton.com

Ingleside Inn, Palm Springs - www.inglesideinn.com

Curry Village, Yosemite - www.yosemitepark.com

Embassy Suites Lake Tahoe - www.hilton.com

River Park Adventure Camp, Coloma - www.whitewatervoyages.com

Glenelly Inn, Glen Ellen - www.glenelly.com

All the pictures were self taken, expect for the airline lounge, hotel rooms and rafting pics. These were courtesy of the airline, hotels and Whitewater Voyages.

We tend to travel independently and book/research most of our trips via the web.

For a trip diary to Mera Peak, Nepal and other interesting reads, try this link  - HAPPY TRAVELS!