Mera Peak Nepal Bob Hancock Surke Kharte Shibuje Robin Hamer Da Gombu Sherpa Lambabu Sprayway

MERA PEAK, NEPAL

A diary of my trip to Mera Peak, Nepal in 2005 - Days 4 - 5.

(Click on any of the pics to see the full size photograph)

Day 4 - Tuesday 18th October - Set off early today on our first full day of trekking - what was in store? Blazing hot sun, fantastic scenery and amazingly friendly people - we had the lot. This wasn't supposed to be a hard day, just ease us into the routine of trekking - uphill, downhill, uphill, bit of flat, uphill - you get the drift. The porters were off before us - the kitchen crew cleaned up after breakfast but soon passed us, laughing as they were carrying their big loads and we were bemoaning our 35 litre backpacks. We were soon spread out along the paths, each going at a pace that he or she felt comfortable with. Me - towards the back, as I was for most of the trek, along with Katrina usually and then Dan after a few days when he felt guilty about leaving Katrina behind (or was it the gentle word she had in his ear!). Only joking, but that's how it tended to pan out. Acclimatisation is vitally important at all stages of the trek, to build up your fitness level and get used to the altitude. If you don't acclimatise properly you will have problems - slowly, slowly is the catchphrase to which I had no problem adhering.

Ah, lunch - the kitchen crew had everything set up ready for us in this small hamlet - just a few corners around from where a cow had recently been been killed and the family were skinning it and cutting it up as we walked past. Gotta get used to it - that's the way of life out here - no refrigerators or deep freezers - everything has to be fresh and then maybe smoked or salted. Great lunch though - its amazing what the kitchen crew, especially cook Galzin can prepare. Hygiene is a main priority, not just us washing our hands after going the toilet (if you can find one) or before eating but the crew who meticulously scrubbed clean all the kitchen cooking utensils and our cutlery/cups. In the picture to the left, there's some writing on the wall of the timber building behind Lambabu. Its political graffiti saying Vote for Glass. The Nepalese have no concept of words like Conservative, Republican, Liberal Democrat or the like and name their political parties after things they can relate to - hence the Glass party. (Quiz fiends each your hearts out - again).

I could have stayed here for a while longer but no, the porters had overtaken us after their lunch and we had to be at the pre-arranged camp site later that afternoon. The sites are all planned in advance as we need to be near running water to get our cooking and drinking water (always boiled). Only about three or four hours to do this afternoon - the last bit being downhill to Kharte - thought the last bit would never end until we came around a corner next to a wall and there were the porters and tents - wonderful. Sat on a low wall and Pemba (who never ever stopped smiling) brought round a warm orange flavoured drink while we all looked at the superb views into the valley and beyond. Some local people and other porters came up the pathway past our site, some stopping for a quick rest and chat, some going straight on. I was tired and crashed out in the tent for a couple of hours until dinner time - even missed the early evening card school in the dining tent! Another excellent meal but we were all heading for bed early tonight - don't think any of us made 9 o'clock or was it 8??

What u want? Grahame, Ewan and Robin

Anyone know the way? Grahame, Ewan and Robin

Hamlet

Porters after lunch and see Vote for Glass, also Becky, Dan, Ewan and Katrina

Gombu and our table porter

Becky, Katrina, Dan and Grahame (backside) at Kharte

Sunshine over the valley

View from Kharte

Grahame with mug of tea early morning at Kharte

View from Kharte early morning

Day 5 - Wednesday 19th October - Woke up early to find Grahame unzipping the air vents in the top of the tent - "We need more air in here" was the comment - "We're at 9,000ft, sleeping in a tent - how much more air do you want?!!?" was my reply, zipping up my sleeping bag - then tea arrived - wonderful. Set off downhill in glorious sunshine into the adjoining valley knowing we'll soon be climbing back up on the opposite side. The weather is great but hot and we always look for a bit of shade when we stop for a rest. Soon have to take off my top layer and I'm walking in shorts and tee-shirt but with loads of factor 25 on. It doesn't take long to reach the bottom of the valley and we have our first authentic wooden bridge crossing over a small stream - not very exciting but its the first. Sod's law - we meet porters coming the other way just as we're crossing over - not much room for a fully laden porter and Grahame on the bridge!

Then comes the slow climb up again - not too bad, you get used to it and I developed a little mantra that I used throughout the trek as we were going along to keep an even pace and to give me something to think about when the going was tough and/or I was looking at the steep path straight in front of me. Sorry, work didn't enter my mind!! - no that's not the mantra.

After this initial climb we reached a slight decline and we could see a building on the ridge in front of us. As we got closer we could make out a man chopping wood and we decided to have a 'Sprayway' photo session. An amazing old guy lived here with his wife and made a living chopping wood to sell to his neighbours (where ever they were) and passers by (when ever). A really happy soul who was delighted to have his picture taken by anyone although his wife was a little more shy. Take a look at his short rubber wellington boots - we saw a lot of people wearing this style. Too soon this 'rest' was over - sure you've got enough photos Robin? - and ever onwards - uphill.

After about another hour or so we reached two houses and were greeted by the local kids again. "Namaste" - they shouted from the house door but wouldn't come out - so we visited them, giving them some sweets and snapping photos - three little kids with snotty noses. They loved to see their pictures in Katrina's digital camera - Mum wouldn't come to the door though.

Suddenly a woman appeared from the house opposite with a very young baby - Sprayway pics! - and all the females in the party went gaagaa and their maternal instincts went into overdrive, cooing everywhere. Eventually we managed to drag them away - lunch was waiting - somewhere!

Actually it wasn't too far but I was shattered when I got there (uphill) - there is a video of my arrival and reception some 20 minutes after the majority had arrived but that's hidden away now. I was amazed though that I wasn't the last - Katrina and Dan followed me - Dan had managed to do a detour, about the only one available in this part of Nepal - made me feel better though - thanks Dan. Great lunch again sat on the blue tarpaulin* in the brilliant sunshine, Ewan with his shirt off and having a snooze (daily ritual virtually every time we stopped), others just lazing around. Just down the valley a new stupa was being built.

*The kitchen porters always laid out the blue tarpaulin for us to sit on at lunchtime and we had to look out for it when we were walking - some days it took us by surprise but every day it was a very welcome sight especially with Pemba bringing round the kettle of warm orange or lemon flavoured water - very refreshing.

Rather an uneventful afternoon heading towards our campsite at Shibuje other than we stopped outside this house for a rest and the lady invited us all in for tea (chi). Two lamas were already there but they left just after we arrived. Wonderful house inside with all their possessions neatly stacked around the walls and the prayer flags flying outside. So generous - they have little or no money but will offer complete strangers hospitality - but we found this throughout our trip. The kids were too shy to come into the main room with us but looked through a glass panel between us and the kitchen area. If you've never tried it, drinking salted tea is a taste that you develop and doesn't always come naturally - I don't mind it, having had it before - but it isn't polite to refuse it, better to sip a bit and refuse any top ups which will, almost certainly, be offered to you several times - smile and look happy. These people seemed fairly well off by the standard of the house fittings. There were painted greetings and symbols on the ceiling joists, including the swastika - a sign of peace. (Hitler reversed the symbol to make it a sign of hate - got that quiz fiends!!). We gave the kids some sweets when we left - after checking with Mum first, of course.

We finally reached Shibuje in thick cloud, not realising that the path we were walking along was in fact along an edge with quite a drop off it on the right hand side. It was fairly damp during the evening and night because of the clouds but the evening routine soon started - card school, dinner, sleep.